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Henna Brows: Professional Guide for perfect results

Henna Brows: Professional Guide for perfect results

By: Marie-José Comments: 2

Before you begin the process of applying henna brows, it's essential to prepare thoroughly and ensure a smooth workflow. Follow these steps to set up your workspace and conduct necessary tests to achieve successful results with henna eyebrow dyeing. Let's get started with the preparations!

STEP 1 / PREPARATION

Prepare your workspace

Henna powder can create dust; if it lands on your furniture or floor, it will oxidize and leave stains that are difficult to remove. Therefore, ensure that the area where you're preparing the henna in your mixing bowl is well-covered to prevent stains. Use plastic gloves and an apron to avoid getting dye on your hands and clothing.

Have everything you need ready so you don't have to search during the treatment.

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Do a patch test

Our eyebrow dye is based on Indian henna. We've added color pigments to give the henna a beautiful light to dark brown shade. Some people can have allergic reactions to these color pigments, which are found in all hair colorants. Therefore, a patch test is important.

48 hours before applying the henna dye to the eyebrows, test the dye on the inside of the arm. Only if you haven't detected an allergic reaction to any of the ingredients should you apply the henna dye to the eyebrows.

Tip: For the allergy test, it's best to use black henna, as this color contains the highest concentration of PPD(color pigments), ensuring safe use if you don't react allergically.

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Choose the right eyebrow dye color for the client

This depends on hair color, skin type, and the desired effect. Below are some guidelines:

  • Blonde is suitable for people with blonde, light brown, or light gray eyebrows.
  • Light brown is a good choice for those who don't want their eyebrows too dark.
  • Copper Brown is ideal for redheads or to mix with Blonde and Brown shades to make these colours warmer.
  • Medium brown is suitable for those unsure of the best color.
  • Chestnut brown has warm, reddish undertones, suitable for vibrant browns. You can add a pinch of Chestnut Brown to any colour to make it warmer.
  • Dark brown is the most popular color and gives beautiful, full dark eyebrows.
  • Gray-brown is a blend that, with light and dark brown, gives a cool effect and with blonde and medium brown, a warm effect.
  • Black is mainly suitable for people with dark skin.

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By adjusting the exposure time, you can influence how dark the final result is. 

Do you want to create a custom tint for your customer? read all abouth this subject in our blog: "THE ART OF MIXING EYEBROW HENNA COLORS".

STEP 2 / CLEANSING & STYLING

Cleanse the eyebrows with Purifying Foam

Just as you use special shampoo for colored hair, you should do the same for eyebrows. Purifying Foam helps make eyebrow hairs soft and shiny, prolonging the color on the skin.

Shape the eyebrows

The shape of your eyebrows is important for the result of henna brows. After cleaning the eyebrows, you can pluck, thread, or wax them to achieve the desired shape.

Remove dead skin cells and degrease the eyebrows

Remove dead skin cells with eyebrow scrub. Massage the scrub cream onto the eyebrows for about 1 minute, then clean it off with a damp pad. Next, use our enzymatic eyebrow peeling to dissolve any remaining dead skin cells. After about two minutes, remove the peeling.

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Thoroughly cleanse the eyebrows with alcohol to optimize degreasing of the skin and eyebrow hairs. The dye adheres less well to naturally oily skin.

STEP 3 / MAPPING & COVERING

Brow Mapping

Precise brow mapping is a crucial step in achieving perfectly shaped henna brows. Use a brow mapping string or pencil to define and outline the desired eyebrow shape based on the client's facial features and preferences.

Begin by marking key points such as the starting point (inner corner), arch (highest point), and tail (outer corner) of the eyebrows. Ensure symmetry and balance between both brows for a natural and flattering look.

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Protect the skin

Next, protect the surrounding skin to prevent the henna dye from staining areas outside the mapped brow shape. Apply a protective barrier using brow contour paste or a skin-safe highlighting pen. This step ensures clean lines and professional results during the henna application process.

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Use an angled brush or cotton swab to apply the brow paste. Ensure the skin is fully covered. Be careful not to get the paste on the eyebrow hairs or the skin underneath (if you want these areas dyed), as this will prevent the dye from adhering.

STEP 4 / DYEING & TOUCH-UPS

Mix the henna powder with rose water

Place a small amount of henna powder in a small plastic or glass bowl (avoid metal bowls!). Mix the powder with a few drops of rose water until a smooth, thick paste forms.

Use a dropper to dose the water. Ensure the henna is fully dissolved. It may take 2 to 5 minutes for the powder to dissolve completely. If the henna isn't fully dissolved or the paste becomes too thin, the henna may turn yellow or green. There are small globules in the paste, this is normal and these globules do not need to dissolve.

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Apply the henna dye paste & remove any stains

Apply the dye in a thick layer on the eyebrows. We recommend using an angled brush for precise work and clean lines.

Fill the eyebrow with henna from the outside to the inside, starting at the tail. Stamp and press the henna into the skin, ensuring even coverage. As you approach the base, apply the henna more thinly. However, make sure the entire eyebrow and the skin beneath it are covered with a thick layer of henna paste. Working in a shaded manner will leave a natural stamp behind, known as the Ombre technique.

Use a cotton swab to wipe away any excess dye that has strayed outside your eyebrow.

The henna dye can be quite intense, so monitor the exposure time carefully! Allow the dye to work for 15 to 20 minutes; the longer the exposure, the darker the result. For an ombre effect, remove the dye from the base after 5 to 10 minutes. If you're unsure about the base and want to check, remove a small amount. Is it still too light? Apply a little more and let it sit longer.

Remove the henna dye with a clean, dry cotton ball from the eyebrows. Unwanted henna stains around the eyebrows? Or is it a bit too dark? Remove or lighten with a tint remover. Avoid using oil-based cleansing products.

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STEP 5 / AFTERCARE

Provide the client with Aftercare tips

To maintain the henna effect as long as possible, give your client the aftercare flyer with the following advice:

  • Keep the eyebrows dry for the first 12 hours; avoid showering, swimming, or sauna. This allows the henna to adhere well to the skin.
  • Avoid using eyebrow makeup, face cream, oil-based cleansing products, scrub cream, or face masks on your eyebrows.

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After 1 to 2 weeks, the client can touch up the eyebrows with eyebrow powder. Perhaps your client also wants an eyebrow powder in the right color, Purifying (brow) foam, and eyebrow gel to perfect their eyebrows at home.

Store opened henna sachet carefully

An opened sachet is usable for up to two weeks, provided it's tightly sealed and stored in a dark, dry place.

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